I originally intended the next thing I made to be a really straightforward plain white shirt. Instead it ended up being a not-quite so plain white shirt: spotty, pintucked, and semi-sheer but at least still white and a shirt. I used a new-to-me Ottobre pattern to make it, specifically Ottobre 02-2010-17.
|Ottobre 02-2010-17, images from Ottobre magazine|
The name of this pattern (Ottobre give sometimes-cheesy names to all their patterns as well as numbers) is "Borrowed from Boyfriend", and as this suggests, it is a loose-fitting, over-sized shirt not dissimilar to a men's shirt. I really liked the pintuck detail, but I didn't like the bib frill and I wanted a shirt with a collar stand but no collar, so I just omitted those details. The frill was easy enough to just omit, but the collar-less collar stand had a less good outcome.
|Ottobre 02-2010-17, in sheer white cotton lawn, as modelled by Flossie (why do I never notice that it's hanging weird on Flossie until AFTER I've taken the photo?)|
|As modelled by me. As you can see, it's massive at the hips and rather long in the sleeves due to how wide the shoulders fell on me.|
All of the real construction issues came about because of my choice of fabric. This is a white cotton lawn with tiny polka dots (only really visible in the detail shots below) and it was one of those "I get free postage if I buy one more thing" buys. When my package of fabric arrived arrived, it turned out to be unexpectedly lightweight, to the point of being nearly sheer. Initially, I set it aside and thought I might use it as lining for a bodice or something, but the more I thought about it, the more it seemed like it would be a great way to make a sheer blouse without having to deal with the sort of fabric you usually have to buy to get that effect. I just don't LIKE sewing with chiffon or georgette, and I don't especially like wearing it either because unless you go nuts and buy silk, it tends to be polyester. With this fabric, although I had to allow for the transparency of the fabric in seam finishes etc, at least it was relatively well-behaved from a sewing perspective and it will be more pleasant to wear.
|Construction details: pintucks, collar, unexpectedly well set in sleeves. The pintucks on the right aren't really crooked, I promise (well, you can see they aren't on the shot on me!)|
I didn't interface any of the usual interfaced areas (cuffs, button band, collar) partly because I wanted this to look soft and unstructured, but also because none of the interfacing I had really worked with the fabric -- I tested on some scraps and even my lightest interfacing looked wrong. I really should have interfaced with self-fabric, but I didn't have enough fabric left to do so. I fear this will reduce the longevity of the shirt quite a lot -- already I can see how it's affecting the buttonholes at the front.
Overall, though, I'm pretty happy with most of the sewing, with the exception being the collar stand. I should have done something more than simply omitting the collar to get the collar-less shirt look I was looking for -- reshaped the collar stand somehow, I guess. As it is, it's kind of a weird shape and stands away from my neck. I don't mind it, but it's not really what I was hoping for. Also, I'm still not getting the really nice finish on the join of the shirt and the collar stand that I am looking for, even though I'm following the David Coffin Paige recommendations. I feel like only practice is going to get me there though, so I'll just keep plugging away at it I guess. Maybe to prove that point, after I whined about how I still wasn't able to put sleeves in well and practice hadn't helped, these went in perfectly first time and are some of the nicest sleeve cap seams I've done so far, in terms of how (relatively) unpuckered they are.
In conclusion: one not-quite plain white shirt for my wardrobe (which meant I could dispose of a plain white shirt I hated, hurray) and one more shirt pattern attempted. :D
As a chaser after a slow and detailed pattern, I also made another pair of knit capri-length Burda 8271 PJ bottoms. I must seem obsessed with PJs as I make them regularly. However, it's actually just that I haven't bought any in years and it seems like every time I replace a pair the appalling state of the other, ancient RTW pairs I own is thrown into sharp relief. I don't have an armoire full of nightwear -- it's pretty much one new pair made, one old pair straight in the bin.
I actually have nothing new to say about this pattern, other than that I definitely like it better made with knits than with wovens (I previously made one pair with each type of fabric). This fabric was one of my very first knit buys, and I have no idea why I bought it. I would not be seen dead in such a twee print outside of nightwear!