|Knipmode 06-2016-20 skirt, image and drawing from Knipmode|
Although I've been receiving (and thoroughly enjoying flipping through) Knipmode for close a year now, I haven't actually made anything up from any of the issues so far. (The one Knipmode pattern I have made up previously (a shirt with placket) was an older (2013) PDF pattern that I bought from their website.) You might have noticed, however, a slight uptick recently in my use of patterns from more recent issues of my magazine subscriptions. I'm trying very hard to be a little less slow and deliberate in my use of patterns! In keeping with this new policy, I bumped this skirt up to the top of the sewing queue and always hoped to make it this month.
|It is virtually impossible to get a good image of a black skirt indoors, but here it is anyway - Knipmode 06-2016-20 in black stretch denim, with grey topstitching and a silver metal zip, as modelled by a hanger.|
The first challenge was to pick a size as the sizing chart is different from Burda/Ottobre. The main difference for patterns where you're looking at lower body only is that the Knipmode measurement chart puts you one size smaller than Burda/Ottobre. I usually choose by hip measurements only. My current hip measurement is 99cm, or a closest to a size 40 (98cm) in Burda/Ottobre and a size 38 (also 98cm) in Knipmode. Both of my most recent skirts were in an Ottobre size 40. In theory, I ought therefore to have gone for a 38 in this pattern. In the end, however, I decided to use a size 40 for this pattern as well, mainly because the skirt in the modelled image seemed to have very little ease. Also, I honestly could not really wrap my head around making anything in a size 38. I mean, I know it's an arbitrary number and meaningless, but it just seemed like any size that started with a 3 was likely to be too small for me.
|(Click to make the image larger) Top-stitching detail on the front, back, and the shape made at the side seam|
the belt-loops, but only because I forgot to make any!
|I'm sorry, this is a terrible photo, but it was the best I could do. Photographing black garments is a trial.|
This turned out to be a really nice test of Knipmode for me. It's a pretty simple pattern, but with all those seaming details it was a good chance to see how well pattern pieces fit together, what the tracing experience was like and how well the pattern and the modelled image resembled one another. My conclusions were: this pattern is well-drafted in the sense that the pieces fit together beautifully. It had zero notches, though, but it also didn't really need them. I found tracing it overall pretty similar to Burda/Ottobre -- there are more pattern sheets and fewer patterns per sheet than Burda, and it's less eye-searingly Spirograph-like than Ottobre, but personally I found differentiating between adjacent size lines less obvious than in Burda. I think my skirt and the modelled image look pretty similar. However, I was quite surprised to discover the skirt is moderately pegged at the hem rather than straight, because it doesn't really look at all pegged in the technical drawing. That is something I'll keep an eye on as I make more from my magazines.
In conclusion: I am really delighted with how this turned out, especially since halfway through I was reduced to extreme frustration by my overlocker mistake. I'm definitely keen to make more from my back issues and future issues of the Knipmode magazines now I've gotten started!