2017 Challenges: February

Time to reveal my February challenge garments! (See also: what my 2017 challenges are about and January's items)

Magazine Challenge: Striped top (Burda 03-2017-126A)

I feel like if you are going to pay for an annual subscription to Burda, you kind of owe it to yourself to make up some of the magazine's weirder and more baffling patterns every so often. Plus, the whole point of my Magazine Challenge was always to make garments that are at the more unique and interesting end of the pattern spectrum. Those are my excuses, anyway, for the fact that this month my Magazine Challenge garment is this wacky top pattern from the Plus section of Burda 03-2017:

Burda 03-2017-126A (Plus) top, images from Burdastyle.ru

The description in Burda is kind of hilarious. "A chic combination of the stripes results in a relaxed shirt with a waistcoat effect" it says. Um. What? I mean, first of all, does it really look like a waistcoat? I can't say that even vaguely came to my mind when I saw it. And then second, is a "waistcoat effect" even something anyone wants to achieve? I feel like if I wanted to look like I was wearing one I'd, you know, wear a waistcoat. Baffling. As usual, it's probably best to ignore Burda's commentary altogether.

Burda 03-2017-126A: My version, on Flossie, front view

As for the rest of the world's commentary, well, every opinion I've seen on the internet has recoiled in horror from this pattern/fabric combination, but I don't even remotely care that everyone else seems to hate it. As soon as I saw this pattern in the previews I knew I wanted to make it at some point this year. I hadn't really thought to make it during February as it's not really useful in the current season, nor even really in the spring. However, when it came down to it I was way more enthusiastic about making this than anything else this month so I plunged ahead despite the fact I won't get to wear it for a while. It won't come to harm hanging in my wardrobe until the weather warms up.

Despite my allegedly cast-iron resolve (actually more the consistency of jello) not to buy fabric for these challenges but to use things I already have, I had to buy something to make up this pattern. I desperately wanted to make the striped version (126A -- 126B is a plain single colour version) and didn't have anything suitable at all. In the end I picked up a one-off remnant piece of viscose morocain crepe on eBay. I knew the variable width stripe would make the pattern more complicated to cut, but I thought it would also be more interesting overall as well, which proved correct, in my opinion. The fabric itself is pleasantly floaty and should be cool to wear in the summer.

Burda 03-2017-126A: My version, on Flossie, back view

I made a size 44, as per usual in Burda tops -- this is a Plus pattern, so the 44 is the smallest size -- and made absolutely no modifications whatsoever. I usually do at least a small square shoulder adjustment with Burda but the shoulder line on this is super straight to start with, so there was no need.

Sewing wise, this pattern is rated easy and has only 4 large pattern pieces and a piece of bias binding. It definitely lived up to the easy billing, even though I did a little extra work because I decided to French seam throughout. In fact, by far the most time consuming part of making this top was laying out the pattern to put the stripes in the right places, especially since the pattern calls for the pieces positioned both on the grain and the cross-grain. And then just to complicate matters when I was pressing my fabric I discovered a small but awkwardly placed flaw that I had to work around!

Burda 03-2017-126A: My version, on Flossie, side view, showing my extremely non-matching shoulder seams

My main stripe matching failure is at the shoulder seam -- the front and back don't match at all. Honestly, though, I didn't even try. I was much more concerned to get the right and left sides to match and to fit everything on my, just barely adequately sized, piece of fabric. I had nothing bigger than a handkerchief -- in fact, nothing as big as a handkerchief! - left of my fabric at the end and even had to piece my bias binding, so I'm not even going to spare a thought for those non-matching shoulder seams.

Burda 03-2017-126A: My version, as modelled by me

The problem with the bizarre end of Burda's patterns is that I can't always tell how they're going to look on me because it's not like I own something similar. I am always a bit nervous when I hit the first moment when I can try it on. However, I actually really like how this looks on! :D I think it's quite striking and unusual even though when I stood still for the photos it doesn't seem to do much for my wide-shouldered body type. In motion/not standing stiffly the hem flares and floats a lot more and it looks more balanced.This summer I'll most likely wear it with navy or white linen trousers or shorts.

In conclusion: A+ Magazine Challenge item, patting myself on the back hourly for having decided to make it.

Wishlist Challenge: Stretch Lace Tank Top

Whereas some of my wishlist items are individual garments, I have a few things on my list that are like "figure out the perfect TNT [garment]". This is one of them -- I want to be able to produce pretty knit and woven tank/camisole tops with embellishment/lace/layering as needed. This particular version of that wishlist item is a stretch lace two layer top. The challenging aspect of what is otherwise a very basic garment was that I wanted to have a go at doing a lined (rather than bound) finish at the neckline and armholes.

February Wishlist 2017: Two-layer tank top in navy stretch lace and navy lycra

The pattern I used for this version is a very basic one that I first used around this time last year to make some simple lingerie type tank tops. It's from my one and only copy of the German magazine Diane Moden, the Spring 2008 issue. Of course, with my massive collection of magazines etc I had any number of similar basic patterns available. However, I quite liked the shape of the neckline on this one and I already had it traced, so I figured why re-invent the wheel.

Re-making the pattern with a piece of blue figured knit

I actually started by re-making the pattern, albeit with a modified scoop neckline, in a small piece of pale blue polyester knit that was lurking in my scrap basket. This served several purposes -- I wanted to check out whether a problem with the fit at the back neck I'd noticed with my previous versions was due to the pattern or my previous execution of the binding (it was the latter), I needed to replace a blue tank top in my wardrobe anyway, I was keen to use up this piece of scrap fabric that had been hanging about a while now, and I really wanted to sew something easy and very likely to be successful that particular day. This little top successfully ticked all boxes!

The original pattern, as you can see from this pale blue version, is bound in the usual way at the neckline and armholes. For a little help on the finishing of the navy version, I used a combination of the instructions for a similar Ottobre pattern, 02-2014-09, a V-neck sleeveless top with a partial lining, and this Sew, Mama, Sew blog post where the lining extends to the hem but the armholes are just turned and stitched rather than attached to the lining.

Lace layer clipped up to show the navy lycra layer below

Using this advice I got all the way through attaching the lace and lining together at the neckline and one armhole and then... I don't know what happened, my brain shorted out and I sewed the second armhole wrong not once but TWICE. If there is anything more exasperating that unpicking overlocker stitches in dark coloured thread from stretch lace, I haven't found it yet, unless it's doing it twice! Eventually I got my brain in order though and managed to finish off the second armhole. The lining hangs loose below the armhole and I hemmed the two layers separately, the lace layer slightly longer than the lycra layer.

Overall, I am quite pleased with this particular top as an individual garment, and also more or less pleased with it as an experiment in doing a two layer top of this type. Perhaps inevitably, since this is the first time I've done this kind of neckline/armhole finish, it didn't come out 100% perfect (or even 90%, if I'm being realistic) and I didn't do the fabric any favours unpicking that armhole twice, but it's OK and definitely wearable, especially as a lower layer. However, I'm not sure this pattern/finishing technique is going to be the TNT combination I was looking for. I want to try out some more ideas on the camisole front -- in particular I want to try out some woven patterns that include lace and are cut on the bias -- so I might return to this wishlist item later in the year.

Spring Planning

Irrespective of the fact that there's an actual snowflake or two falling outside my window as I type this, as of Monday I am switching over to sewing for Spring 2017. I've got a little list of things in my wardrobe that need replacing before we get into the warmer weather, some altogether new things to add to my wardrobe, and a handful of fancy ideas.

My plan for spring sewing therefore looks something like this:

Burda 01-2007-110 and Burda 08-2016-134

Outerwear: As always I have grand plans for outerwear which, you know, insert hollow laughter here, because I rarely accomplish them! Still, there's no harm in being optimistic I don't suppose. The jacket on the left will be in a camel twill with a leopard lining, and the one on the right is intended to be in a bright blue ponte with a teeny tiny stripe (not one I will have to match, thank goodness) and a bright blue lining.

Tops: I need a couple of fairly plain long sleeved woven shirts. I've tried a couple of patterns so far for woven button front shirts -- one from Ottobre and one from Kwik Sew -- with mixed success overall. I'm going to see if I can find a pattern and start the process towards getting a good fit with a fairly basic pattern. This type of shirt is a real staple for my casual wardrobe and I could really do with a TNT. My last attempt at a button front shirt was a disaster as I made it from a horrible shifty viscose, so this time I am all about the nice stable cotton fabrics!

I also want three more tunic length tops. This is something I started making in the autumn with a black tunic that I actually like a lot and have worn fairly often. So far I have some fabrics picked out, but I am dithering about patterns (as usual).

Trousers: I am going to make version 2 of the stretch Jalie 2908s I made last year, which were by far my most successful trouser attempt of 2016. I love my electric blue pair but this time I think I'll go for something a little more bland and use black stretch twill. My big sewing concern is to a much better job with the fly, because I made a total mess of it with the last pair!

Burda 10-2014-113 and Lichen by Yumiko Alexander (image from Ravelry)

Cardigan & Jumper:  On the left, a hugenormous cardigan from Burda 10-2014, for which I have earmarked a very lightweight grey/silver knit. On the right, my over-ambitious knitting project for spring/summer, a DK weight lace pattern jumper. I'm starting now, even though it's actually intended to be worn in the summer, because it takes me so long to knit anything. The pattern is Lichen, by Yumiko Alexander. I feel certain I will be extremely sorry I had this idea in due course.

Other: I need a couple of pairs of PJs and that is where I am going to start my spring sewing next week. I'll also be sewing my February and March Wishlist garments (February is fun so far! And I know what I am making in March as well.) and my February and March magazine challenge garments (I have picked February but not even traced it yet, and I have not made any decisions for March at all yet). I also have plans for two bags I want to make over the next couple of months, and I'm still working on my cross-stitch kit as well.

I am all excited about my sewing plans for the next few weeks now! I love a good seasonal plan, and I feel like there is a good mix here of repeats, easy things, long-term projects, things that need fitting work and more challenging sews.  Now all (!) I have to do is stay moderately well and also not get distracted by either (a) something shiny or (b) something other than sewing. :D

A Gigantic Tote

I don't have a massive list of clothes I need right at the moment so I have taken to filling up my sewing time with non-garment sewing. I have a whole separate bag fabric and pattern stash that I haven't been dipping into much of late. Sewing bags is how I got started sewing but it took a definite back seat when I started sewing garments. Even so, I've been quietly building up quite a list of bag sewing ideas and now I have the chance to cross a few things off.

Jumbo Shopper with Inset Zipper, in brown faux suede and a patterned home dec fabric

At the top of my bag list was using a really nice piece of upholstery fabric that I bought at the craft fair I attended back in September. I had a few ideas, but what I really wanted was a pretty straightforward "big tote bag with a zip" sort of thing. As I only had a half metre, and a horribly crookedly cut half metre at that, I needed to make a colour block pattern. I therefore decided to make the cover pattern from this book, Sew4Home Bags and Totes, called the Jumbo Shopper With Inset Zipper.

I probably didn't really need a book because the bag is basically a series of giant rectangles and for sure I don't need hand-holding through making a squared bottom tote bag. In truth, I kind of ignored most of the instructions as a result -- especially the way they lined the bag (they used my least favourite technique -- dropping the lining in with a folded edge and stitching it into place -- and I used my actual favourite, turning through bag through the side of the lining). On the other hand, I did like and use (most of) the inset zipper instructions to good effect.

I used a pretty heavy duty metal zip for the inset zip

The other big difference between my bag and the pattern is that I used, for the first time ever, these stitched on faux leather handles. I've used pre-made handles/straps before but never the sort you stitch in place like that. On the plus side I think they look really smart. On the minus side, I didn't place them very well -- I should have moved them closer to the top -- and I also should have used a more substantial interfacing where I sewed them onto the bag. I'm a bit concerned the loose weave of the upholstery fabric may not perform well over the long-term with that stitching.

Light coloured lining inside, with a large sectioned pocket

Inside, I used a pale coloured lining and (again ignoring the instructions) put in a large pocket stitched into sections just the right size for my phone, a pen, etc.

Overall, this came out exactly as I'd hoped! It was a very simple sew, even for a bag, but I feel quite enthusiastic about making more bags this year. I had forgotten how much I enjoy it.

Bits and pieces

•  Let's not talk about my fabric stash right now, OK? I know I was all "Who even cares if I don't have a minimalist fabric stash?" at the end of 2016, but I really didn't mean that I could go bonkers and buy a ton of fabric in January 2017. And yet, somehow... /o\ On the plus side, I am in love with everything I bought and will hopefully use most of it in the next few months, so whatever, maybe I will have a less ridiculous month in February.

• I just this morning saw the preview for the new Ottobre Woman (02/2017) and I am MAD KEEN on it, which is all to the good because my reaction to both Burda and Knipmode February was a resounding meh. Both of them had some patterns I sort of liked but nothing that really jumped off the page at me, and Burda in particular is wildly unseasonal. Why so many sundresses in February, Burda? By contrast, based on the preview I'll probably end up adding half of S/S Ottobre Woman to my queue/Magazine Challenge list.

One of Vogue's new S/S patterns, V9243. 

 

• We appear to be in a fashion moment where a large proportions of the new and trendy is revolting to me. :( I am SO VERY MUCH not into ruffles, and it's wall to wall everywhere in patterns and RTW at the moment. And not just, you know, some little dainty ruffly bits, but GIGANTIC FLAPPY RUFFLES. Apart from just not liking ruffles, I have practical objections: if you're like me and you wear layers 99% of the time you end up with weird and uncomfortably lumps of fabric stuck down your sleeve and fighting with the neckline of your jumper/cardigan. And of course I am super opposed to anything that adds bulk to my big shoulders and large bust because no, really, I don't need to look any more top heavy, thanks. The other big thing seems to be off-the-shoulder/cold-shoulder, which I actually DO kind of like... on other people. On me, with off-the-shoulder in particular, the bra problem looms large (the problem being: a bra is not an optional extra to my wardrobe and I haaaaate strapless).

• I am ULTRA fed up with that blue jumper I finished knitting in January. This is going to make me sound really stupid, but I guess when I tried it on for a little while before I posted about it I was mostly concerned about the fit through the bust and upper arm. At the time, I decided it was wearable, even though it wasn't the loose/comfortable sweater I thought I knitted. Then the other day I actually wore it. After wearing it for ten minutes I took it off and got my measuring tape out. When I washed it, I lost **8cm** in length off the sleeves and hem!! Er, how did I just NOT NOTICE when I was trying it on before?! The sleeves in particular are now just FAR too short, and there is literally nothing I hate more in a jumper than sleeves that are too short. As I mentioned in my post, the yarn really degraded in the knitting process, so right now I am torn between just outright tossing the whole thing out as a failed project and frogging the jumper. For sure I wouldn't make another jumper from it, but I could make... something? I don't know. It feels so wasteful to just throw it away!

Half-finished lace-weight scarf; half-finshed cross-stitch; some of my drawings.

• This post is turned out to be a lot of whining, so I am going to end with some positives: (1) I am actually making some progress with the lace-weight scarf I am knitting and oh my goodness, I love how soft and fuzzy it is! I am about halfway through the skein now and if I can keep up some momentum I think I might be able to finish it in February, even though it is such a ridiculous black hole of a knitting project. (2) I am also half-way through my new cross-stitch! (3) I am ALSO half-way through making a bag, which is turning out exactly as I imagined. More on that soon as I hope to finish it this weekend. (4) I started trying to learn to draw again (using some books) and I am again really enjoying it! I got distracted last year from a previous attempt to learn to draw, so I hope I can be a bit more consistent with it this year and make some progress. (5) I am on a countdown to starting the new drug treatment for my (chronic, rare) illness, and although I spend a part of every day muttering ihopethisworksihopethisworksihopethisworksihopethisworks to myself, I really just want to get on and try it and see if it DOES work. Even knowing it doesn't work would be a big thing after two years of waiting for this trial.