I must confess that the majority of the envelope patterns I've bought are Big 4 envelope patterns (a majority of them Simplicity). I do have a few independent vendor patterns: two from Cake, one from Deer & Doe, a couple of My Image envelope patterns (though one of those I won rather than bought). I also allegedly have two StyleArc patterns but alas they are caught in a vortex somewhere in my sister-in-law's handbag and I may never actually have them in my possession (I've been waiting for her to send them for over six months now). Also in my stash: a couple of Silhouette patterns, some e-patterns from Grainline and Dixie DIY, a couple of free patterns from Colette and Maria Denmark, the famous Weekender Sunshine tee from HotPatterns and the Jalie pattern for jeans, and finally, the Colette book which contains several patterns. In total, including the Colette book, I have about 20 patterns from independent vendors, from a pattern stash (excluding magazines) of 114 single pattern envelopes.
What is remarkable about this list is not the sheer number of patterns I own (though, that's quite remarkable as well, in a bad way!), it is that it seems like every sewing blogger and her little dog too makes up garments from two sources that I own exactly none of: Colette envelope patterns, and Sewaholic.
I've mentioned before that my main problem with Colette boils down to the fact that I just don't like her patterns with a more vintage aesthetic -- too fussy, too girly, too costume-like for my tastes and my lifestyle. This is also why I've not made any of the patterns in the book either. I have to be honest, I'm always kind of amazed that sewers who make up loads of those patterns up find any place to wear them because no, really, I've never worked anywhere where people wouldn't have side-eyed you for wearing most of the Colette catalogue. I do just wonder how much mileage most people really get out of the clothes they make to those patterns. On the other hand, the patterns she makes that don't have that aesthetic (e.g. the wide-legged trousers and the most recent Laurel dress) are a total snooze -- pretty enough, for sure, and I know people buy them as much for the quality of the instructions as for the pattern, but I am certainly not going to spend €20 to acquire one pretty bland and ordinary pattern.
Plus, I don't know about anyone else, but when the pattern reviews are about 75% "It took eight muslins and I ended up doing this whole shopping list of adjustments to get it to fit but the final dress is awesome, A++ pattern!" I have serious concerns about, well, everything. How is it an A++ pattern if it took you 300 hours to get it to fit? Especially if I'm looking at the photos silently observing all the ways it doesn't really fit. I mean, I am the last person who should make any comment about other people's fit problems, but I have to wonder, if it fits that badly after multiple muslins, what the hell did the first muslin look like? I am probably jaundiced though by my one attempt to make up a muslin of a Colette pattern, the ubiquitous Sorbetto, which was a complete and utter waste of time -- so much so that you'll note that I've never made up an actual garment, so appalling was the fit even after three attempts at a muslin.
With Sewaholic, I do love her patterns. I follow her blog. I love the clothes other people make. I think if there is a indie company I yearn to give my money to, it's Sewaholic. But I have the exact opposite of the body shape she drafts for -- and while that's 100% fine and I wouldn't want her to stop drafting for that body shape, it means that even contemplating her size chart makes my head ache. I was very taken with the Robson coat, but I just couldn't face the adjustments. To get shoulder fit, I'd just barely get into the largest size plus a massive FBA, but then I'm at least two and maybe three sizes smaller at the hips than her sizing and that's BEFORE the extra waist and hip volume provided by the FBA. In the end, her patterns are just not unique enough or killer enough for me personally to get into that level of adjustments before I even start normal tweaking for fit. If you're a pear-shape I can totally see that Sewaholic is a godsend. For me though, I was trying to think if I could see myself ever buying a Sewaholic pattern, and I have to say although I would never say never, it would have to be a pattern that was just beyond amazing and utterly unique, just because the sizing is so epically wrong for my body.
Of course, none of us have to justify why we make up the patterns that we do, and I am 100% not saying that if you love Colette and get perfect fit straight from the envelope that your experiences are not valid. Really this post is because I'm super tired of seeing, and being given, the advice that as a relative beginner, all else being equal I should learn to prefer either Sewaholic or Colette patterns because Big 4 patterns are horrible and won't fit. I really think that's super discouraging when Colette has such a specific aesthetic that, newsflash, not everyone likes and moreover seems to have some epic fit issues for a lot of body types, and Sewaholic is drafted for a specific body type that not everyone has, AND when they represent such a small number of patterns and come in so very very expensive compared to the Big 4, even if you're paying European rather than American prices.
I don't think Big 4 are perfect either -- far from it -- and you've all seen me fall about laughing at Burda's idea of what we should be wearing before now. So I'm not really picking on the indies, particularly, so much as trying to suggest that they are not as far above reproach as we sometimes seem to suggest. I get wanting to support indie designers, I really do. They are One Of Us, very often -- women like us who were bloggers and sewers who have transitioned from sewing for themselves to designing for themselves to designing patterns for general use. I just don't get why we're so insistent as a community that because they are One Of Us their patterns are beyond reproach, the best choice for beginners, or even, really, necessarily something special (Colette Laurel, I am looking right at you right now).
Been reading your blog for a while now, but I really am very lazy on commenting... And it's not just because, as a non-english, I'm afraid of making stupid language mistakes, I don't comment in Finnish blogs either. There should be a "like" button here too. You would have got many "Likes" from me!
ReplyDeleteI totally agree with what you wrote today! I sort of love Colette's stuff, but I don't think I'd ever use any of their garments. I might try some of Megan Nielsen patters some day, like this: http://megannielsen.com/collections/sewing-patterns/products/banksia-top-sewing-pattern. But every time I try some new designer I end up swearing loyalty to the beloved Ottobre patterns!
I have looked at Megan Nielsen's patterns a couple of times but mostly I feel like it's not my aesthetic. I quite like the Darling Ranges dress but I already have the Deer & Doe Sureau dress (http://boutique.deer-and-doe.fr/5--robe-sureau.html) which is very similar (and fewer buttonholes!).
DeleteI'm a huge fan of Ottobre though! I really don't think Ottobre can be beaten for a lot of basics, plus the sizing really works on my body shape, plus I find the drafting is really accurate. I bought all the back issues from 2006 and have a current subscription and I am SO GLAD that I have it.
I have subscribed Ottobre from day one :-) Got all the kid's magazines too. And the photos are amazing, don't you think? In some other magazines the photos are so artistic you can hardly tell how the garment looks like.
DeleteThe Darling Dress is nice! But 20 AUD... A bit much.
Burda is the WORST for those artistic photos. Often you look at the line drawings and you can't even remotely make the outfit the model is wearing and the line drawing match up in your head.
DeleteThat's the other thing with the independents: SO EXPENSIVE. I mean, I understand the economics of why, but at the same time, WOW, SO EXPENSIVE.
I agree with much of what you said. None of Colette's patterns appeal to me, and Sewholic is the wrong shape for me (big busted, narrow hips for my size). I do have a few patterns from independents when I've seen something truly unique and appealing. I'd like to support the indies more, but it's hard to pay $20 for a pattern when you can pick up a very similar Big4 pattern for a few bucks. In either case, I'm going to have to make a muslin (or 2 or 3) to get the fit right.
ReplyDeleteI agree -- the price differential is just too stark when the pattern in question is pretty ordinary. To be fair, most of Colette's patterns are very distinctive and unique and not something you could pick up from a Big 4 pattern very easily. They're not unique in a way that appeals to me at all, but there's clearly a huge market full of people who really do love those looks, so it works out well. Sewaholic too, it's a bit less expensive to start with and I've seen plenty of pear-shaped women flailing with glee at being able to make patterns straight out of the envelope for the first time ever, so there's obviously a good market there, even if, again, it doesn't include me. The problem is, a lot of the other independents don't seem to have quite the same unique quality. They're just making Big 4 type patterns, only at four times the price. That really doesn't make sense to me. I regret more of my indie purchases than regular envelopes because they were so much more expensive than typical envelopes and it's not always clear to me that they were really worth that money, not for a fairly basic garment.
DeleteYou are so funny and so brave to write this post! I agree with so much of what you have written, but haven't yet read anybody else say these things - I truly thought I was the only one who didn't like the Laurel dress, not only didn't like but am appalled at the amount of online publicity it got, and no doubt sales, all because of a canny marketing ploy called "competition".
ReplyDeleteI think we should all individually just buy and make whichever patterns we like, and like you, not be afraid of honestly critiquing a pattern no matter where it is from.
The thing is, I really do want to support the independent pattern makers, and I am on the look out for a pattern to WOW me enough to fork out the big bucks. So far nothing has screamed out "I'm designed just for you - buy me now" so til then, I'm more than happy with my current pattern collecting habits.
If you thought you were the only one who didn't like the Laurel, have a look at this blog post.
Deletehttp://themuslinette.wordpress.com/2013/04/14/what-is-this-shift/
That Laurel competition was the smartest marketing move ever, seriously. I can't even deal with how many people must have shelled out like €20 for such a basic pattern. Not when you can get eight copies of an identical 60s shift dress pattern from eBay for the same money. At least with the very latest dress that she released a couple of days ago, well, I don't like it but there's at least some design in it.
DeleteThanks for the link ElleC, I did read her post and find her point of view a kindred one.
DeleteI think it's mostly the packaging. I don't think I've ever bought a big 4 pattern based on the strength of it's own photos or illustrations. All the big 4 patterns I've bought are because I saw a blogger make a version I liked, and usually when I go look at whatever the pattern is, I think they can't possibly be the same because the photo on the pattern envelope is so hideous. I shop for patterns the same way I shop for clothes, and I want to buy a pattern that looks like something I want to wear.
ReplyDeleteThen again, I learned to sew because I fell in love with a fashion blogger's (http://frocksandfroufrou.com/) version of the Colette Macaron, and four muslin-muslins and one wearable muslin later I still don't have the fit down. So maybe I should rethink how I buy patterns.
I tend to buy patterns based more on the line drawing than anything else. The pictures are pretty much universally terrible, or even when they're not they show a woman so far from my own body type in the garment that it provides me with zero useful information about how it would look on me. I tend to stalk PR reviews and blogs, though again bloggers tend to self-select so we tend to see a lot of images of young, slim woman in their creations and not so many older fat women like me!
Delete(You are so far from being alone on the Macaron fitting front. I don't think I've seen more than one or two people who made it without tears and massive adjustments. Personally, I'd be inclined to conclude it's a pattern problem.)
That sounds like a better the way to do it, but if I'm not wowed by a photo, I'm just not interested.
DeleteI am in almost total agreement with everything you have written. I think Colette patterns are lovely. For someone else. Like you, I have the book, I bought it as much for the instructions, I find Sarai often has a different way of doing things that works better for me. One day I may make the Taffy, or not.
ReplyDeleteI have just made three of Sewaholics Renfrews. To say I love this pattern isn't stating it enough. They fit out of the package, and the instructions are excellent. The only other Sewaholic pattern I have is the Minoru jacket, I have been looking for this jacket in RTW for years, and now I can make it.
There are other indie designers that aren't in the current crop of what I think of as the youthful ones. For instance Loes Hinse, I just made two pairs of her Cruise Pants, and they fit right out of the package. I will be buying more of her patterns. The thing I love about Jalie (besides being Canadian) is the cradle to grave sizing of their patterns, what a money saver if you sewed for your children.
The thing I like about the indie designers, is the accountability aspect to buying their patterns. Tasia (Sewaholic) for instance, uses multiple pattern testers, which I think is brilliant, and if I had a problem with one of her patterns, I wouldn't hesitate to email her. You certainly couldn't do that with a Vogue pattern.
When I started writing this I had a point to make, and somewhere along the way I lost it 8-). If it comes back to me I will sign in again and share it.
Great post and love the dialogue.
I have been tempted SO MANY times to buy Renfrew because everyone raves about it and I've seen so many gorgeous versions of it. Then I look at the sizing and just: nope. That is a pattern that is really not made for me.
DeleteI do feel like the indies benefit from the fact that we feel that they are part of our community, closer to us than faceless patternbots who work for Vogue or Simplicity. I mean, obviously they are NOT patternbots, they are actual real people, but we don't KNOW them, we can't talk to them, and they don't talk to us. What this tells me though, more than anything else, is that the Big 4 companies are dinosaurs who have totally failed to take advantage of the thriving online sewing blog world. They could EASILY be part of our community, but they don't even have BLOGS. That's how bad their online presence is.
Hmm, I just bought my first Colette pattern on a (an expensive) whim - the dress that came out yesterday. I haven't tried Sewaholic - although I am pear shaped, it is the cost and shipping that gets me plus trying a new-to-me line. Plus at 45 I feel a little old for both these ranges (it would be ok if I was slim, but I'm not).
ReplyDeleteI get great fit from Style Arc, though, with just a few adjustments (eg adding a lot to the hips) that seem to work regardless of which pattern I'm using. It's so exciting as I'm 5 ft 2, and about Style Arc size 18-20, so I'm far from a standard size. I'm also trying out Lekala - do they count as independent?
I agree with your comment above about the Big 4. Recently I emailed Butterick asking for the finished bust measurement of a dress (in any size), and they couldn't tell me. It's kind of shocking, really. It's the kind of info you'd expect them to have for all their styles.
I do have one other hesitation about indie patterns, and that's that some lines are made by people with formal training and experience in pattern drafting and some are really quite new to the field and there's the whole range in between. It seems that those with less formal training often have cute designs and excellent instructions, but those with a formal and/ or industry background really have the edge on the drafting (as you'd expect). And you really have to read the bio of the designer to find out.
Great post! I'm enjoying your blog.
I actually don't TOTALLY hate the Hawthorne dress because I think she's on to something with the half circle skirt rather than the usual gathered thing that a lot of shirt-dresses have. Definitely a better look for a lot of pear-shapes and even hour-glass shapes. However, for me personally, I don't like the neckline or, in particular, the collar. I have broad shoulders and I feel like the collar would look out of proportion on me.
DeleteI definitely agree though that there's an age factor in play -- in my opinion, less so with Sewaholic than with Colette. A lot of Colette stuff I think is really for people 10-15 years younger than me (and probably 4-5 sizes smaller than me, really). A couple of Sewaholic patterns skew more cute and young but a lot of them I actually think are pretty solid basics. They're just EXPENSIVE basics and if you've already done all the work to adjust a decent knit pattern then, pear-shape or not, it seems like a waste of money.
De-lurking to comment as well. I agree too. But maybe I'm so used to most things in the world excluding me for one reason or another that I don't even think about the indies for myself. I usually put them in the "little & cute" category and go along my way. There is definitely a thriving market for "little & cute" so I'm not mad at the indies for tapping that market. I did buy 1 J.Stern Designs pattern to sew along to her PR class. The most expensive pattern mistake I ever made. I will have to support small business fabric suppliers and sew from my pattern stash of older patterns with printed measurements on the pieces.
ReplyDeleteI just wish some of those indies would tap a different market. Why are there so few people producing really amazing plus-size designs, for example. You look around the blogs and it's very clear to me there are plenty of plus-sized women who sew for themselves because the choice of clothes in shops is so shockingly poor. But the patterns aren't a lot better, really. Unless you like the shapeless sack thing, in which case, yes, there are eight zillion patterns for you.
DeletePS did you happen to buy the Tee pattern from J. Stern, plus the associated class. I bought that combination and oh my goodness, what an EPIC WASTE OF MONEY that all was, ugh.
DeleteSorry, must have double-posted this morning. I did, I did buy The Tee pattern and the class. I found the tip of using fusible tape in knit hems useful from the class, but that was it.
DeleteIn terms of plus-size indie pattern designs, I think it may be a matter of a plus-size sewer to get fed up enough to design patterns for her specific body shape/ sewing cohort. Maybe one day soon...
Yes, I think so too. Of course the problem is that "plus-size" is a really generic descriptor -- it's not like all plus size sewers have the same body shape. We need about half a dozen plus size indies making amazing patterns, really.
DeleteYes yes yes yes. I still can't make up my mind if the Sorbetto is a net good or evil. I am another person that's just not in to the Colette style, and the instructions are great and all, but what does it matter if I don't want to make the item? It's also much much harder as a beginner to be able to tell if the pattern is drafted well, or even what it means for a pattern to be drafted well. It took me 2 years to be able to say I knew what that meant. What bothers me about the Sorbetto is that I actually fit the description of who they're drafting for on paper, but their basic bodice block (the Sorbetto) was a terrible fit for my actual body. In fairness to Colette, so was the simplicity tank top too.
ReplyDeleteThe women starting the pattern company Lolita Patterns are actual friends of mine in real life, so you decide for yourself if I'm totally biased, but I think they're going to do well with plus sizes. They're using different blocks and grading for their plus sizes. I'm excited to hear if plus-sized seamstresses are happy with their sizing. Their post on their sizing is here: http://www.lolitapatterns.com/sew-thats-why-lolita-patterns-sizing/
I am constantly infuriated to see people going "Make the Colette Sorbetto!" to beginners as if it's a universal panacea to clothes making. I have to be honest, I can't see the point of a woven, mostly unfitted cami anyway. It's not something I'd ever buy in a million years. I HAVE owned fitted woven camis but they've all been princess seamed, and I have owned stretch camis, but I can't place the Sorbetto anywhere in my wardrobe. It's not only not my aesthetic, I am actively at a loss to figure out what the hell I would ever wear it with. I had way better luck starting with Connie Crawford's G-cup sloper to make myself a semi-fitted blouse block.
DeleteThat Lolita sizing looks super interesting! I will keep an eye on them. Unfortunately I don't think the pattern they are testing at the moment is quite my thing, but maybe their next one will be.
I can understand why you don't see the need for woven tank tops, I didn't either until I moved somewhere warm. For years I wore ribbed knit tank tops and t-shirts, thinking that's what you wear in warm weather. Finally when I made a rayon challis dress I realised that I'd been totally missing out. It's much easier to keep cool in a flowy woven top than a knit one.
DeleteHa, yes. Well, it's 13C here in Dublin right now and I am wearing a fleece jumper to stay warm, so I don't think I'll necessarily EVER need a woven cami top! :D
DeleteOh Westmoon...I think I luv you! hahahaha!
ReplyDeleteSeriously, I would never, ever disparage someone's work to be mean. But really, indie designers are business owners. Their purpose is to grow their business and get our money. Hint: That's no different from McCall/Simplicity/Burda Style. They want our money. They want us to buy their product. You may get a "girlfriend next door" feel from an Indie but her ultimate goal is to provide you with a product in exchange for your cash.
I just don't have the need for many of the EXPENSIVE patterns I see. I do quite well sewing from the Big 4+. And now that I have conquered my fear of Burda mag (okay, not completely...those instructions...) I feel like I have enough reasonable options for the type of clothing I make/live in.
I am happily not really torn between the expense of the indie patterns and a desire to sew them because so many of them are so very very vintagey and feminine, and my preferred look is way more tailored/preppy/menswear-inspired sort of thing. Burda is way better for me in that respect than any of the envelope companies at all, plus I also get some of the other European mags.
DeleteI actually don't find the Burda instructions as impossible as other people do. Whether it's because I actually started sewing from Ottobre pretty early on (which is, if anything, even more terse, although at least it is better translated) or because I speak enough German and other languages that I kind of feel comfortable with the non-native-speaker grammar that is going on, I don't know. Or maybe I just haven't tried a sufficiently complicated Burda pattern yet to be baffled by it!